A table full of small bowls, bread in the middle, and everyone reaching for whatever they like: mezze are one of the most sociable ways to eat. Whether in Istanbul, Beirut or Athens, wherever people know mezze, the point is less a fixed menu than time, conversation and variety. Less well known is that the word itself tells a Persian story. A short journey through the world of mezze – and back to Persian appetizers.
Where does the word mezze come from?#
The word mezze (Turkish meze, Greek mezés) reached the kitchens of the eastern Mediterranean via Turkish. Its origin is Persian: maze (مزه) means "taste" or "a bite", and in Iran it is still used for a small morsel to try. With the Ottoman Empire the term spread from the Balkans to North Africa – and with it the idea of serving many small dishes at once. You can read more about the word's history in the Wikipedia article on meze.
The principle is similar everywhere: mezze are not a starter in the Western sense, followed by the "real" course. They are often the meal itself – a table where people sit for a long time.
Turkish meze: rakı, fish and long evenings#
In Turkey, Turkish meze belong to the meyhane, the traditional tavern. Cold meze usually arrive on a tray and guests pick what they like: yoghurt with cucumber and garlic (cacık), stuffed vine leaves, aubergine purées, spicy tomato and pepper salads or white cheese with melon. Warm meze follow later, often with fish. The classic drink is rakı, the aniseed spirit that turns milky with water – an evening at such a table can last for hours.
Greek mezedes: small plates with ouzo#
Greek mezedes are also closely tied to a drink: ouzo or tsipouro are rarely served without a small plate. Olives, tzatziki, grilled octopus, fava made from yellow split peas or a piece of feta with oregano – the idea is that food and drink belong together and nobody drinks on an empty stomach.
Lebanese mezze: the great table of the Levant#
The tradition is at its most generous in the Levant. A Lebanese mezze can consist of a dozen bowls or more: hummus with olive oil, baba ghanoush from roasted aubergine, tabbouleh with plenty of parsley, fattoush with crispy bread, muhammara made from peppers and walnuts, plus falafel or kibbeh. Flatbread serves as cutlery. Anyone invited here soon notices that generosity is part of the meal – a half-empty table would almost embarrass the host.
It is striking how many ingredients these cuisines share with Iran: pomegranate molasses, walnuts, yoghurt, aubergines and fresh herbs appear in every version of mezze.
Persian appetizers: herbs, yoghurt and aubergine#
And in Iran itself? A Persian meal traditionally has no strict sequence of courses – rice, stews and kebab are on the table together, as we describe in our article on Persian food culture. Even so, there is a rich world of Persian appetizers and side dishes, which today are often ordered first in restaurants:
- Sabzi khordan – a plate of fresh herbs such as mint, basil, tarragon and radishes, often with flatbread, sheep's cheese and walnuts.
- Mast-o-khiar – yoghurt with cucumber, mint and sometimes dried rose petals.
- Borani – yoghurt with spinach or aubergine.
- Kashk-e bademjan – aubergine purée with kashk (fermented whey), fried onions and mint oil.
- Mirza ghasemi – smoked aubergine with tomato, garlic and egg from Gilan province.
- Salad shirazi – cucumber, tomato and onion with lime juice.
- Torshi – pickled vegetables that no Persian meal should be without.
Many of these dishes are meat-free – read more in our post on vegetarian Persian food.
Sabzi khordan: the green heart of the Persian table#
Sabzi khordan is especially typical. In Iran a plate of fresh herbs sits on the table at many meals – not as decoration, but to be eaten: you roll herbs, cheese and walnut into a piece of bread. Few things show so clearly how much freshness and balance matter in Persian cuisine.
Mezze and Persian hospitality#
What unites all mezze cultures is sharing. Nobody has "their own" plate; everyone eats from the middle. That fits perfectly with Persian hospitality and with taarof, the ritual of politeness in which the guest is always offered a little more. If you sit at such a table for the first time, feel free to try everything – that is exactly what the small bowls are for. And if you are still hungry after the starters, the history of kebab shows how closely the grilling cultures of this region are related.
A few tips for the mezze table:
- Start slowly: mezze are a marathon, not a sprint.
- Bread as a tool: flatbread often replaces fork and spoon.
- Sharing is a must: order several small dishes rather than one big one.
Conclusion: mezze – a Persian word for a worldwide idea#
Whether Turkish meze with rakı, Greek mezedes with ouzo or Lebanese mezze on a long table: the idea of many small plates has a Persian name and a shared soul – enjoyment in good company. Persian appetizers such as kashk-e bademjan, mast-o-khiar and sabzi khordan naturally belong to this family.
Would you like to experience Persian cuisine for yourself? At SANTOOR, Florianigasse 20, 1080 Vienna, you can enjoy Iranian cuisine every day from 12:00 to 22:00, and our kitchen is 100% halal. Reserve your table here and take your time – just as mezze intend.