When the days in Vienna grow shorter and the wind blows through the lanes of the Josefstadt, the season of Persian stews begins in Iranian kitchens. They simmer for hours over a low flame, smell of turmeric, dried limes or toasted walnuts, and usually come to the table with a mound of fluffy rice. Persian stews are not fast food but a piece of everyday culture: they are cooked for the family, for guests – and often the day before. In this article we explain what makes a Persian stew, how it is eaten and which classics you can cook yourself.
What are Persian stews?#
In Persian a braised dish is called khoresh (also khoresht). It means meat – such as lamb, beef or chicken – cooked slowly with onions, herbs, vegetables, pulses or nuts. A khoresh usually has less liquid than a Central European stew and is more of a thick, aromatic sauce. The Encyclopædia Iranica describes khoresh as a typical dish of Persian cuisine that is normally served over white rice – and that brings most of the flavour to the plate.
There are also stews that are closer to a hearty soup. The best-known example is abgoosht, also called "dizi", one of the oldest dishes of Persia.
Typical ingredients and flavours#
Persian stews rely on a few but very characteristic ingredients:
- Turmeric and golden fried onions form the base almost every time.
- Dried limes (limoo amani) add a fine, slightly bitter sourness.
- Fresh herbs such as parsley, chives and fenugreek turn a dish deep green.
- Pomegranate paste and walnuts create a sweet-and-sour, creamy sauce.
- Pulses such as red beans, white beans or chickpeas make the dish filling and thicken it.
The most important ingredient, though, is time. Many Persian stews simmer for two to four hours so that the meat becomes tender and the flavours come together.
Three classics to cook at home#
Ghormeh Sabzi – the herb stew#
Ghormeh Sabzi is considered Iran's national dish. Lamb, red beans and a large amount of finely chopped, fried herbs braise with dried limes for three to four hours in total. A tip from our recipe: do not fry the herbs too hard and use fenugreek sparingly, otherwise the stew turns bitter. Ghormeh Sabzi often tastes even better the next day.
Fesenjan – pomegranate and walnut#
Fesenjan is the festive one among the Persian stews. Toasted ground walnuts simmer with chicken or meat for about one and a half to two hours until they release their oil and the sauce becomes thick and creamy. Only then is the pomegranate paste added. Depending on the paste, Fesenjan turns out sweeter or more sour – many families mix both. Because the pomegranate is also the symbol of Yalda Night, Fesenjan is a favourite on the table in December.
Abgoosht – the stew in two courses#
Abgoosht combines lamb on the bone with chickpeas, white beans, potatoes and tomatoes. After two to three hours of cooking it is eaten in a special way: first the broth is poured off and eaten with Persian flatbread and fresh herbs. Then the meat and pulses are mashed into a savoury purée, the "goosht koobideh". Pickled cucumbers, raw onions and yoghurt go well with it.
How do you eat Persian stews?#
A khoresh is almost always served with rice – ideally fluffy basmati rice, which is not mixed in but served next to or under the stew. Much loved is the tahdig, the crispy rice crust from the bottom of the pot, whether made from saffron rice or with potato slices. Fresh herbs, yoghurt or a Shirazi salad are often on the table too. People eat together, help themselves several times and take their time. That is exactly what makes Persian stews the ideal meal for long autumn and winter evenings.
Tips for your Persian stew at home#
- Cook the day before: most stews gain flavour overnight.
- Salt at the end: adding salt only at the end helps the meat become tender faster.
- Soak the pulses: ideally leave beans and chickpeas in water overnight.
- Be patient with the heat: low heat and more time are better – at the end the oil separates on the surface, a sign that the stew is ready.
You will find more classics in our Persian recipes.
Enjoy Persian cuisine in Vienna#
If you would rather not cook on a cold evening: SANTOOR at Florianigasse 20 in Vienna's 8th district serves Persian food from a 100% halal kitchen, open daily from 12:00 to 22:00. For family celebrations, business dinners and special occasions you can reserve a table right here – tell us about your occasion and we will get back to you personally.
Nooshe jan – enjoy your meal!